Checking the valve clearances // changing shims

[Dave71]

hi guys, i thought some pictures would be nice....

i have actually changed the shims... but i think i made three really stupid mistakes.. 1 maybe fatal....

1. I mixed up which cam cap goes where (clearance measured dont mean shit now.... i.e. shims changed for nothing)
2. i used the lithium based grease to lub the cam... I was looking for moly based grease, but i can't find any at bike store or just generic automotive superstore ( i know, ridiculous)... so i just asked for what they use to lube the cam at a local autoshop.... I sure hope that stuff won't kill the engine... i researched the stuff online afterward... it says its suitable for operating temperatures from 130 degree c - 220 degree c... operating oil temperature for bikes should not be above 110 degree c... so i hope this is actually okay... or else.. i'm f**k*....
3. the thermosat housing was getting in my way to unbolt // bolting the cam cap... so i got pissed and decided to get rid of the thermosat housing.... As soon as i took 1 hose off, there was still coolant inside, and i spilled some coolant on the cam shaft lobe... i did my best to wipe away everything... but now i'm really paranoid about the coolant....

my tips for doing shim swap with engine inside the bike....
0. take off the thermosat housing..
1. be a neat and organized like an anal girl
2. cover up the engine with plastic bags if you dont finish in 1 session ( i've been waiting for parts... i'm still waitig)
3. clean up the engine really well, i didn't do a good job...
4. when installing the cam chain, make sure the chain over the exhaust side of the shaft have no slack when the timing mark is lined up, then install the intake shaft via the following step
a. pull up the chain on the intake side tight with your hand
b. mate the intake cam sprocket to the inside chain ( you have to guess where the timing mark is gonna end up )
c. install the shaft onto its bearing surface and check where the timing mark is....
d. repeat step a - c, note that each time at step c, you should be able to get the timing mark closer to position...

these are just photos before i had the shims changed... putting the cam shaft back on was a massive pain... involves a little trick too --> see tips 4 (sorry i didn't have any pictures documenting what i did there... because i was "pained")

[FastFizza]

Hahaha, oh boy, you coulda saved yourself a lot of trouble by asking someone in the know first

Firstly, dont worry about the cam grease or the coolant. Theres enough oil circulating through the head to keep everything lubed up sweet as, and the coolant will just flush out the bottom when you run some old oil through to clean out any crud that may have got in there and before you stick in a fresh filter and fresh oil (if you hadnt planned on doing this i fully recommend you do )

Secondly, and most importantly, i didnt see any evidence that you had checked your engine is at TDC. Your crank MUST be at TDC before you put the cams back in or they're going to be completely out of timing and you're going to hole a piston. I dont know if you already have, but before you put the cam cover back on id advise you to take the RH side cover off (magneto cover) and check the TDC mark is lined up. You'll be REALLY sorry if its not.

Just some helpful words from a man who's literally just bolted his head back together this afternoon

EDIT *HA! Just saw the loose bolts in the picture of the magneto cover. You're onto it. Safe as